Eating & Shopping at Guangzhou

On this day, November 17th, we spent a full day here at Guangzhou (广州). The greatest new experimentation of our Asia adventure is the ability to take the local bus. Another commuting option enabled by another WeChat Mini Program, so convenient here in China. Of course with WeChat Pay picking up snacks and meals is literally seconds away.

Therefore, it is not a huge surprise where we spent the majority of our time doing. After a quick local breakfast (really on the cheap), we set out to Lychee Bay (荔枝湾). We toured the old town surrounding the park, and then walk around the park. We then had dim sum at 泮溪酒家(荔枝湾店) opened since 1947. The dim sum here is about the same as in Toronto, BUT its rice pot was way better!

At night, we checked out the night scene at 北京路步行街. The place was lively and active and simply had street food there for dinner. We also did some light shopping in the malls surrounding place. When the shop starts to close, we stopped by at a soup place where Carol had a chicken soup in a coconut shell. The soup was too sweet for me, but she really liked it.

Of course on our way to the subway stop, we spotted a dessert place called, 明记甜品, that we cannot simply let it past, so we stopped there and had a “little” dessert.

I have come to the conclusion that Guangzhou is my version of heaven! Check out Carol’s video of the day below:

Lots to eat in Guangzhou!

In Search of My Roots (寻根)

On November 15th, we went to 东仓里, 江门市 (Jiangmen), 广东省 (Guangdong). We liked to thank Carol’s cousin’s sister-in-law who drove us to Jiangmen. It was about 2.5 hours from Fenggang with the traffic and all.

Click above to goto Baidu map
My paternal grandparents’ tombstone

The idea is to checkout what the birth place of my grandfather’s ancestral village looks like today.

We based our search on the information from the tombstone on the left, and the remaining memories of my father and my aunt.

The ancestral village is called 东仓里 (sorry no English translation here). We also have my great-grandfather’s name, 呂贊泉, and my grandfather’s names (more than one), 呂華富, 呂俊, and 呂仲平. In the past, people went with many aliases. One is given at birth by your parents (名) and is used to address you by your parents or your family members. The second name (字) is given to you when you come of age (20 years old for male and 15 for female). Your school mates, friends, or people of the same generation will use this name to address you. The final name (号) is used by others to address you with respect typically by people of younger generation than you.

My father has the following names: 呂厚積 (名) and 呂栢钊 (字).

We arrive at the village and went to the local government office who was extremely helpful. They gave us a tour of the neighbourhood and introduced us to the people who have been there for ages. We met a lady who claimed to know a member of the Lu (吕) family who passed away at 103 years old about 3 years ago. His name is 呂厚巨 (名). Since both my father and this deceased member share the same 厚 middle name, there is a very high likelihood that they are of the same generation from the same family. She then told us that 呂厚巨 told her that a long time ago a part of the Lu (吕) family emigrated to Vietnam and never came back. This could be my grandfather at the time.

The ancestral home has since been knocked down, and she showed us where the house would have been. Everyone was very patient with our ignorance and received lots of help from people of the village. I use the word village very loosely, since it is now integrated into the Jiangmen city, and it looks and feels more of a neighbourhood surrounded by more modern buildings.

After our in search of our roots exercise we went to Shunde District (順德區) of Foshan City (佛山市), which also resides in the Guangdong Province (广东省). There, we had some good eats. Shunde is known for its Cantonese cuisine. You cannot get more Cantonese than Shunde. Checkout the attached video by Carol to get a taste of what we had.

Our trip to Shunde
November 16th: Transiting from Shunde to Guangzhou

Convenience of China

On Monday, November 13th, we register our place of residence at the local Police Station. If you are not staying in a hotel and you are visiting a family or friend, you must report your arrival and present your proof of residence to a local police station within 24 hours of arrival. Since Carol’s cousin knows everyone, including someone working at the police station, and we were advised by her that we don’t really need to do it, because our stay is too short. We thought it best to do this any ways, just in case.

The locals no longer use cash for day to day activities. It is all on their cell phones. People no longer need to carry their wallets. All of their identifications, and monetary funds can be accessed using their phone and the WeChat app. You pay for everything using WeChat Pay. You can get food using WeChat, and you can arrange transportation using WeChat.

The past weekend, we felt totally handicapped. We had to depend on Carol’s cousin on everything! Of course we want to be independent during our remaining stay here in China, so I will describe here what we had to go through in order for us to enjoy the same level of liberty and convenience that locals do.

The very first thing is to make sure you have a cell phone that has a local Chinese number and has data within China. The way we did this is to simply purchased two Nihao Mobile SIM cards. China does not support eSIM’s. I purchased Airalo China just so that we have data access when we were traveling from Hong Kong to China, but the Airalo solution is not sufficient because it does not provision you with a local phone number. Activation with the Nihao SIM was pretty straight forward. I did have an issue with my wife’s SIM card, but it was quickly resolved with Nihao’s WeChat support.

Once you have a local Chinese phone number, you will need to open a domestic bank account so that it can be tied to your local phone number. You will need a local resident perhaps a family member or friend to help you out in this matter. I opened an account with the DRC Bank. However, my wife had an issue because her passport name was simply too long for their systems. She had to goto ICBC to open an account. The difference is that DRC Bank was able to activate my account in less than an hour, but ICBC requires a seven day hold on the account creation application. The difference in service is astounding.

Once I had WeChat pay tied to my bank card, I can pay for things with my iPhone! This is simply a joy. We used the Meituan (美团) app to order food delivery, and we used the DiDi app for local ride services similar to Uber. If you want an extended stay in China and want to travel on your own, then you MUST have the above setup. Without a local number and WeChat pay, it will simply be hell for you in China.

Below are the videos from the past two days showing the above process and how we enjoyed this convenience.

Getting registered and getting our WeChat Pay to work!
Using our WeChat Pay for food!

Crossing into China

On the morning of November 10th, we had a quick Hong Kong Cafe Style breakfast next to the hotel lobby, and proceeded to pack and awaited for our pre-arranged ride into China.

Shenzhen Skyline in sight after crossing into China from Hong Kong

If you are going to spend about 2 hours in the car, and have lots of luggage, then the best thing to do is to arrange this super comfortable van that was outfitted with business class style seating. Of all the transits up to this point, this was by far the best transit we have had. The driver is experienced in taking people like us across the border from Hong Kong into China. He provided us with the necessary forms and guided us through the custom and immigration process.

This is the very, very first time when I enter into China without being taken aside and await for some verdict. I was really, and pleasantly surprised!

Our final destination in China is Carol’s cousin’s home in 凤岗镇东莞市广东省 (Fenggang Town, Dongguan City, Guangdong Province). She has a condo unit in Fenggang Town, which a small town with a population of about 50,000. But don’t let the small size fool you. The town is bordered with other towns that together make up the Dongguan City (东莞市), and that city is connected to Guangzhou City (广州市), a tier one city in China. The whole area is like the Bay Area in Northern California. They even have similar names. The Chinese call this area the Greater Bay Area (大湾区), which encompasses all the major cities surrounding the Pearl River Delta. This includes the city of Hong Kong, and Guangzhou. This area contains a total population around 86 million people (more than 2 times the population of Canada).

Our first morning stroll in Fenggang

Our remaining time of our Asia Trip will be exploring the Greater Bay Area. However, before we start our exploration there is some financial preparation we must do. In China, we are financially crippled until our iPhones and in particular our WeChat App is connected to a Chinese bank card. Without this, we will not be able to buy anything or pay for anything. “Everyone” uses WeChat Pay!

Where we are staying

Our first weekend in Fenggang heavily relied on Carol’s cousin to eat and shop. Since we arrive on a Friday, and banks are closed over the weekend, we have to wait for Monday to embark on getting a Chinese bank account and connect it to WeChat on our phones.

The weekend was spent with family, which really means lots of eating. We are so grateful to have family in Fenggang, and one member who actually offered an entire condo unit for us during our stay here. We are living very comfortably as we explore the various restaurants here.

Below are Carol’s videos that we’ve recorded to so far, spanning three days.

November 10th, when we drove from Hong Kong to China
Our first full day in Fenggang on November 11th
A restful Sunday spent chatting and running about on November 12th

Landed in Hong Kong

Our flight landed in Hong Kong late in the evening on November 8th and we took the Airport Express train and then a tax directly to the Royal Plaza Hotel in Kowloon. Very nice hotel for Hong Kong and I would come back here again.

We do not plan to stay in Hong Kong long, just enough time to sample some Hong Kong unique eateries, and renew Carol’s Hong Kong ID card. We will return to visit relatives once we have our China’s itinerary straightened out.

Even with such an uneventful stay, Carol still manages to muster up a video per day during our two day stay. The attached videos are below. They are far more descriptive than any words that I can use to describe our stay. We will be transiting to Fenggang, Dongguan (凤岗镇 东莞市 广东省) today to visit Carol’s cousin.

Carol’s videos:

From Tokyo to Hong Kong Transit (November 8th)
Our one full day in Hong Kong (November 9th)

In Tokyo

We spent two wonderful days in Tokyo. The first day (November 6th), was mostly spent in transit from the second Ryokan to Tokyo via Matsumata, and Nagano. The transit itself was an adventure.

I knew the bus experience was somewhat slow and infrequent, so to prepare for our journey to Tokyo, I spent the time to reserve a Taxi from Alpico. I have nothing but good things to say about Alpico Taxi services. They were punctual; as a matter of fact, the driver came 15 minutes early to the hotel. We experienced a very scenic drive from the Takayama region to Matsumata train station. The landscape was surrounded by picturesque mountains with autumn colours with rivers and streams carving through them.

Our transit from our last Ryokan Inn to Tokyo

Once we were at the train station, I picked up pre-reserved online tickets from the JR East ticket counters (or rather their kiosk machines) using the QR code that I received when I reserved them. We then found a nice spot to sit and relax, and Carol bought some sandwiches for lunch which I downed pretty swiftly. I am not sure what is in the Japanese bread for the sandwiches, but they are like candy!

Approximately 15 minutes before the departure time, we went to the gates. AND THEN our adventure started!

Apparently the ticket reservations that I purchased online just consisted of the “Limited Express” tickets, which by itself does not suffice for travel. In addition to the tickets that I have, we have to buy the “Base Fare” tickets. I did not learn of this until our train has left and negotiated with the customer service representative at the tourist ticket center. The other tourists were very kind and let us cut through the line, so that we can attempt to catch our train. This of course was to no avail. We simply did not have enough time to resolve the ticket situation before the train left. Luckily we were able to rebook on the next train leaving an hour after our original train, and obtained our Base Fare. This whole process took something like 30 minutes.

In hindsight, I now learned that on the screen which I booked the tickets, there was a check box which I should not have checked. It is one of those check box which I mistook for an “Do You Agree” style check box, but upon further review, it is to agree to purchase just the “additional element” to the ticket, and SKIP the base fare purchase. Lesson learned! I still find this two ticket system to represent a single fare super bazaar. Any ways, when in Rome… Always read the fine print in a foreign land! This adventure is chalked up to user error.

We got to Tokyo to meet up with a very close family friend, Miado, who you can say literally knew me since when I was a toddler. Her daughter took some time out of her busy work schedule to meet us at the station and guided us to Miado’s home. We were very grateful for her navigating the super busy pathways of the Tokyo train routes.

After our greetings, and catch up, we had a delicious and wonderful Japanese BBQ. The beef was really delicious! I especially liked the esophagus, and the tongue. They are of course rare cuts in the West. For a person who is not known to eat lots of vegetables, I even took a liking to the cabbage salad which I found super crispy, like eating chips.

The Tokyo Skytree (click to enlarge)

The next day (November 7th), we visited the next generation Tokyo Tower which is called the Skytree, and then we went on the Tokyo Sky Bus tour. This was an open roof double decker bus tour around the central area of Tokyo. I was expecting a mediocre ride around the various skyscrapers of Tokyo, but to my surprise I really enjoyed the ride and learned a bunch about the various structures in central Tokyo. I am glad that I went on the tour, and apologize for any hesitations that I may have displayed for not wanting to go in the first place! Again another lesson learned. Just like you should not prejudge people, you should also not prejudge tourist attractions!

Below are some of the pictures that I took during the bus tour and our walk around the Tokyo Train Station (please click to enlarge).

After the tour, we were famished and wanted to have some sushi. The restaurant that we chose was originally from and well known in Hokkaido. In Japan everywhere requires a reservation. This restaurant is no exception. We had to reserve and wait for about 30 minutes, which we used productively by touring the historic Tokyo Train Station. The station was designed and built in the late 19th and early 20th century, and is one of the first modern architecture in Japan.

Once we were seated at the sushi restaurant, you can order the dishes or pickup the dishes which are made readily available on the conveyor belt. All the dishes were really delicious. We tasted different fishes and cuts that we will not find back in Canada. Checkout our stack of dishes when we’re done with the attached photos below. Once again, you can click to enlarge them.

Carol went to do some shopping with Ikue, and I went to relax with Ikue’s father and sister at a coffee lounge at Daimaru Tokyo, a department store complex near the Tokyo Station. The atmosphere was nice and quiet and it gave us an opportunity to chit chat. I really enjoy this time to catch up with Miado’s family members.

After coffee, we went to a floor filled with Japanese confectionaries. Ikue’s dad and I picked some really nice sweets. He was really affectionate in choosing the sweets for us, and took the time to purchase the N.Y.C.Sand delicacy, which is widely popular in Tokyo sometimes forming lines which you have to wait for hours. Our timing was perfect. We only waited around 20 minutes for the cherished items.

A walk around the sweets!

I really want to thank Miado’s husband and his daughters for taking care of us on this day. Everything that I have mentioned was planned meticulously by them. It was extremely thoughtful of them. Last but not least Miado herself spent time and effort to cook for us that evening, and we had a really delicious meal. I really love the sea cucumber, the scallops, and of course the beef!

Both Carol and I really enjoyed our stay in Tokyo. Although the time was short, but the most important thing was spend time with friends. I look forward to reciprocating their super friendly hospitality when they visit Canada!

Unfortunately all good things come to an end. Yesterday we have to say our goodbyes to Tokyo and transit to Hong Kong.

Our Ryokan Experience

We spent the last two days at two different Ryokan’s in the Takayama, Gifu Prefecture. The first one was Kakurean Hidaji, and the second one was closer to the Shinhotaka Ropeway called Yarimikan.

Both represented the traditional Japanese folk homes with a service themed on onsen and delicious dinner and breakfast. The location of these two Ryokan was a bit far from Nagoya, and took us about 3 hours to get here by Nohi Bus with a single transit at Takayama.

For me the experience was a little too retro for my taste, but I did enjoy the outdoor onsen quite a bit. The tatami was also too much to get use to, so thank god for the soft beddings that they have available for sleeping. At Yarimikan, there wasn’t even a shower in our room. We have to goto the indoor baths to take showers. For the adventurous ones out there this may be an excellent experience, but for me I prefer more creature comforts.

The next time we do a Ryokan we are going to strictly limit our bookings to private baths within the rooms! However, no matter how retro these places get, the comfort of a warm toilet seat is always something to look forward to in a Japanese washroom! Carol’s video will show more of our relaxing times at the ryokan’s.

We also took the opportunity to take the cable car at the Shinhotaka Ropeway. Unfortunately, we were not able to make it to the top, because the second leg of the journey was under maintenance. We did meet a local who was visiting from Kyoto and strike up a good conversation in English. He suggested that we should also visit the Kamikochi area. We will not have time on this trip, but perhaps next time.

Below are the two videos from Carol, representing each day of our stay at the two different ryokan’s.

Nagoya

We said good bye to Hotel CLAD and took a taxi from the hotel to Mishima station, where we boarded the Shinkansen to Nagoya. I reserved the Shinkansen tickets early so that we can have reserve seating in the Green class (more comfortable class). The reservation also allowed for the oversize luggage that we had, which we stored in the allocated area behind our seats. This was super convenient.

To reserve our seats, we used the iOS app from the Central Japan Railway Company. Before I booked any tickets, I had to create an account first and for some reasons my TD Visa failed on the verification. However my AMEX card was fine with the registration. It looks like anything related to transportation, such as Pasmo and train reservation I have more success with AMEX.

During our stay at Nagoya, the Pasmo IC card in our Apple Wallet was super handy to take the local subways, buy stuff from local Seven Eleven and FamilyMart, which are literally on almost every other corner. In these convenience store we found a new love for Japanese sandwiches. They were simply delicious.

The JapanTravel iOS app was also very useful in navigating the subway lines and local transit.

Aside from snacks and finger food from the convenience stores, we also had a few meals from the local restaurants here. In one sushi restaurant, the food was a bit underwhelming to be honest. I could not tell the difference between this restaurant and a very good sushi restaurant from Toronto. Also the sushi chef did not really rolled out the red carpet for us, and we felt like we had finish our meal and leave in a hurry. It did not help that no one there speak any English. Perhaps, I am simply not a sushi connoisseur. The ramen and BBQ beef place was very good and I really enjoyed both meals especially for the price. We had the Hida Beef lunch at 飛驒牛一頭家 馬喰一代 名古屋WEST, and the ramen at 麺屋 やま昇.

We also took time to visit the Nagoya Castle. Since we are staying right next door to it, we had to visit the signature tourist location of the city. I will let Carol’s videos speak volumes of our visit. The AirBnB place that we got was on the penthouse of the Howa BLDG. The place is really nice and I would not mind recommending this place to anyone else who is planning to visit Nagoya.

Transiting from Hotel Clad to Nagoya
Full day in Nagoya

Mount Fuji

When we got in last night, everything was dark. All we had time for was check into our hotel.

This morning we open up our hotel room shades to discover a wonderful and beautiful sight of nature. Mount Fuji was a sight to be seen!

We had a wonderful hotel buffet breakfast and then did a private onsen session in front of Mount Fuji for an hour. The bath was hot at 41ºC and it was hot. I had to get out of it every 10 minutes or so to cool down. After the bath, you just feel like jello, super relaxing and a great time for a nap! Carol loved it so much, she went back for another session in the evening. One session was good enough for me.

Below has a wonderful picture of the view we had from our room and the private bath. Click on the individual pictures to see it in its full resolution.

The hotel buffet breakfast was okay, and we really did not have much choice because no place was open until 10am or 11am. We had ramen for lunch at the outlet mall’s food court. The ramen was good, but I had an issue with Pasmo. This is a cashless payment card (one of many called IC cards in Japan). The idea is to have it top up with some cash, and you can use the cards with transit, vending machines, and retail shops. Our TD Visa card fail to validate with Pasmo, but our AMEX card worked okay.

Long story short, I ended up paying twice the amount for the ramen. The merchant says it was cancelled but the amount was already deducted from my phone. Not a very good experience. I suspect there is some incompatibility with its functionality and me having my iPhone on the VPN. With the language barrier I decided not to argue the point. Subsequent transactions worked flawlessly. I hope it is just an isolated scenario, but still quite worrisome.

Overall today was a good experience around the outlet mall with the Fuji Mountain constantly within our views. Carol of course did a much better job of capturing the day with the following video:

We Are in Japan!

On October 30th, we started our trip to Japan with a private shuttle service to Toronto International Airport. Since we have already performed our online check-in, we just needed to drop off our single bag.

I have worked with the check-in kiosks numerous times before, and knew that it should be able to print out the baggage tags, and receipt. This worked okay, with the exception that it needed to scan my passport to look up my booking. Me entering the booking reference number did not work for some reasons.

Our gate was E79

The automated baggage drop off was a new experience for me. We had to perform multiple attempts, ensuring that the bag was oriented correctly so the machine can read the bar codes. We were also given a tip by a fellow passenger that it also helps to stand at the appropriate spot. The important thing was that we got it to work in the end!

The waiting and boarding is the MOST stressful part of the entire airport process. I really do not understand why the airlines cannot streamline this part of the journey.

Waiting in line to be boarded

As the above picture show, it was just chaos. With a full flight and the possibility of no more overhead baggage storage made it more stressful.

The flight is a long one something like 14 hours, but also felt really long. Air Canada really skimped on the food. We just had a late lunch and a hot breakfast. Between the lunch and breakfast was something like more than 8 hours. The electrical plug at the seat was so loose that my usual block adapter did not work. Luckily my wife had a smaller plug that use to come with the iPhones, and that worked. The washrooms on these long flights are also beginning to show its age and wear.

To top it all off, we had another 2.5 hours drive from the airport to our hotel, named Hotel CLAD. Even with the plane landing at 5pm, we didn’t get into our rooms until after 9:15pm.

Once we landed we had our handy QR codes from Visit Japan Web, where we pre-filled out our immigration and custom information. This saved us a lot of time. I highly recommend any one traveling to Japan to do the same thing.

We also purchased a 20GB 30 day data only eSim from Airalo. This worked really well as soon as I figured that the eSim from Airalo must have Data Roaming turned on. To avoid any roaming charges from my primary Koodo line back in Canada, I made doubly sure that the Koodo line Data Roaming is turned off, and I do not answer any calls from the Koodo line. Once we landed I switched to the Airalo eSim and both of our phones have data, while our social accounts still use the Canadian number.

Below is my wife’s video account of our journey:

Video of our flight and drive to Japan from Oct.30 to Oct. 31.